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The Fight Against Flies – Protecting Your Horse

Humans and horses alike suffer from the summertime pests that are flies. From horse flies to horn flies, there’s an entire species of nasty little critters ready to bring discomfort, and even disease, to our equine friends, if not prevented from doing so. With horse flies, eye gnats, and face flies being just a few of the insects out to bite your horse (and maybe even you) this hot season, it’s no surprise that fly prevention options are more vastly available than ever.

fly-horse

Anyone who rides or cares for horses knows the annoyance that flies can bring. Their constant biting keeps tails swishing and hooves stomping all summer long. Beyond this discomfort, flies can be a cause for even more concern. For those like me, whose horses suffer from fly allergies, these little pests spell itchy and bald legs that are hardly fit to step foot in the ring all show season long – not to mention one cranky horse, and a seriously discouraged rider.

As unexpected as it may seem, flies can pose even more major problems for us, and our horses, despite their small size. Beyond the annoyance and itching of those pesky bites, a badly timed one can spell disaster. Countless riders every year are thrown, kicked or otherwise injured as their poor mount objects to unexpectedly being feasted on. What’s more, thanks to their blood-drinking nature, flies are tiny transmitters of disease. We’ve all heard of West Nile Virus, but how about Pigeon Fever, Swamp Fever, or even Equine Anthrax? Flies can pass any number of these to our horses, sometimes their riders, if not kept at bay.

So with summer rolling around again, and the bugs gathering in their masses, it’s time to sit down, read up, and then get those flies under control.

 

Police the Paddock

To begin to reduce the number of flies that use your horse as a buffet while he’s in the paddock, a great place to start is the paddock itself. One of the most effective ways to control the population of flies in any area is to pick up the muck. Regular poop picking not only helps prevent overgrazing and worm infestation, but also avoids attracting even more flies to your horse’s environment. In a perfect world, the paddock would be cleaned out every day. Realistically, even having everyone at the barn come down one day per month and to spend the afternoon clearing whatever they can, helps.
horse-paddockIt is also important to make sure your horse has somewhere to go to escape the flies – your paddock shelter isn’t just for rain. In the hotter months, your horse can go inside to find shade, and some level of reprieve from the flies, which means making sure some form of shelter is available (and preferably clean), is important.

To go one step further, leaving your horses a pest repelling paddock lick such as the Rabon fly block, can also help to lower your fly population. The active ingredient in these lick blocks claims to stop the fly life cycle for up to four different species, while the other ingredients are good for your horses overall health.  With no daily action required beyond making sure your horses have access, a fly prevention lick is definitely worth looking into.

 

Gear Up

Creating a physical barrier between your horse and the flies, is one of the easiest ways to keep the biting insects off.  Almost every equestrian store sells a range of fly gear, including blankets, hoods, leg wraps, masks and fringes. Each of these can stop flies from getting to the skin, which eliminates your horse as their next meal, though this kind of equipment is not always totally straightforward and without challenges of its own.

Fly blankets are usually made of an extremely tight woven, thin mesh. They often extend all the way up the horse’s neck and even include a specially tailored piece to cover the belly. The idea is that this overall coverage means the flies simply can’t get to the majority of your horse’s body. In most cases this works, though there are a few equines who are the exception, or take exception, to this strategy.

When buying a fly blanket, so many are available that the choice can seem overwhelming, and in a way, it is. In the heat of the summer, it is important to consider your horse’s comfort – which is why you bought the blanket in the fist place, right? But choose the wrong blanket and you end up with a horse who’s fly-bite free but spends all day hot, sweaty and baking in the sun – not so great. Most of the better-made blankets are designed to allow maximum airflow, are UV resistant, and made specifically to reflect the heat and keep your horse cool while protected.

That said, if you’re trying your horse out with a fly blanket for the first time, buying a high tech, and likely expensive blanket, might also not be the best plan of action. Remember that turn out sheet that got torn to shreds last winter? These fly blankets are made of mesh, and are destined to fail when even 1200 denier polyester couldn’t succeed. Whether you have a young horse, or just a horse that loves to play and scratch on the fence, most fly blankets don’t hold up well. For that reason, it’s a good idea not to spend a fortune until you know how long you can expect the item to last, though you still need a product that is functional and will keep your horse cool when he’s turned out in the sun.

After you finally find that blanket that’s just right for your horse, then cross your fingers and throw it on him, the physical barriers available for fly protection don’t end there. Anybody who’s been around horses has seen the tiny little flies that seem to love to crawl around their eyes, particularly in spring or the hours before the sun is at its peak. These are eye gnats, a particularly nasty set of insects who love to feed on blood and pus. Though they don’t actively bite, their spiked mouthpieces open up your horses skin to a number of diseases, as well as being painful and prone to leaving tiny scars.

One of the best ways to keep your horse free of eye gnats, is to cover their eyes. This can be accomplished by either a fly mask, or fly fringe. Fly fringes come in all shapes and sizes and can be fitted onto a halter or bridle, or even come attached to elastic and ready to be worn alone for the paddock. The fringe runs across a web browband, while numerous strings hang down and brush across the horse’s face and the area around the eyes, shooing the flies away. Though this works to some extent, we all know those little bugs are persistent, and will come back whenever they can, which could lead to a lot of head shaking for your horse.

A fly mask offers total coverage for your horse’s eyes, and is made from extremely thin, fine woven mesh, which is completely see-through. Some of these masks even cover the eats too, and are usually elasticated with safe velcro closures. Given their nature, these masks keep all manner of insects away from your horses eyes, ears and a good portion of their face. All this makes masks seem like the obvious choice, and in some ways they are, though unfortunately, they too have their own set of potential drawbacks. We’ve all heard the phrase about the bee in the bonnet, how about the fly in the mask? It happens. One little critter gets in there, and your horse is going wild in the field trying to get that thing out, and get the mask off, until they succeed, or you notice and go help. Similarly to the issue with the rugs, these masks are also easily damaged, and if your horse has the Houdini gene, they can be easily rubbed off on a fence or otherwise ditched.

One final product to think about employing into your arsenal of physical pest barriers, are fly leg wraps. Similar to the idea behind the blanket and the mask, these are again made of breathable thin mesh, with safe velcro closures, to keep flies from biting the legs. Many horses like mine who have an insect allergy, or insect induced dermatitis, suffer greatly on their legs, and so, these wraps can be invaluable. Like any boots, they have the potential to slip or rip, though most well made wraps will stay put and help keep the flies off (and the hair on) those usually itchy legs.

 

Eat Right

Like almost every equine complaint, fly problems too have a range of dedicated supplements that claim to help. Most feed stores sell these supplements, and although the ingredients in each vary, many of them come from the same group that are commonly available throughout. In picking a supplement, a little research goes a long way, as does reading other owner’s reviews, and not just what the company claims a specific product does.
garlic-foodMy favourite natural ingredients for fly supplements are garlic, brewers yeast and flax. Brewer’s yeast is rich in Vitamin B1 – Thiamin. When this is fed, this harmless excess Thiamin is excreted through the skin and gives off a fungal or plant odour to insects, making your horse smell like something to be ignored, rather than a blood buffet for the taking. Garlic is naturally full of sulphur, which when excreted can act as a natural repellent to biting insects, as well as helping to ward off internal parasites too.  Finally, Linseed or Flax, is a great addition to your horses food to help reduce the allergic reaction behind fly bites, as well as giving them a great coat.

When selecting your supplement, remember that no matter how great the ingredients, your horse has to eat the stuff if it has any hope of working. Try to buy a small quantity, or even get a sample, and check your picky eater doesn’t disapprove, before you commit. Never buy anything experimental, or that isn’t available through a reputable feed store.

 

Spray Down

Perhaps one of the most popular methods of fly control, is fly spray. Today, there are a range of sprays that vary in price, all claiming to be the answer to your equine fly woes. Some equestrians spend ridiculous amounts of money on their own personal ‘miracle’ brand, which they claim keeps the flies off, while others make their fly spray at home and swear by its results.

Me? I sit firmly on the fence. In the last thirteen years, I’ve failed to find any one fly spray that is a god amongst fly-battling men. Sure, some work better than others, but all of them have limited scope. For these sprays to be effective, most need to be applied every 4-6 hours, and realistically, not many owners can keep up with that punishing regime. Even longer lasting fly sprays often don’t work as well as they should, and although they are no doubt very valuable as a tool in your fly fighting arsenal, they should not be the only one.

A few more recent additions to this category include fly gels and even a fly spot on. The gel is great for those hard to get places, around the eyes, ears and genitals of your horse, where a spray would probably earn you a kick in the shins. Please make sure you use a gel that also contains sunscreen – any kind of oil and the baking sun can be a terrible combination, especially on the soft skin around the eyes and muzzle. The fly spot works just like the flea spot on does for dogs and cats. After breaking open the little tube, you apply a spot in the areas clearly illustrated on the diagram, and the liquid is said to be absorbed into the skin where it will keep your horse fly free for up to two weeks.

Though they are a key component, fly sprays, gels and spot on, in my opinion, are not enough to do they job all by themselves, but makeup an important part of the overall defence.

 

Winning the War

There’s no guaranteed formula, and for every horse and every owner, the fight against flies is different. All of the options covered above can act as valuable tools in your bug busting toolbox. Whether it’s blankets and spray, or supplements and paddock care, any change you make has the potential to impact the flies that plague your horse’s paddock, no matter how small. For that, he’s sure to thank you.

 

By Emma Doherty – Luna Sport Horses

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The Perfect Horse Paddock

There are many requirements for a horse paddock, and while some are flexible or open to interpretation, others are absolute and can be disastrous if not addressed properly. From the amount of space required to the policing of poisonous plants, information is the key to a safe, and fit to purpose, grazing and exercise area for your horses.

 

Size

 

When considering a paddock to turn out your horse in, one of the most important factors to consider is the size. While the official British Horse Society recommendation is 1-1.5 acres per individual horse, this is a great starting guideline, but doesn’t apply in every situation.  This estimate is based on a paddock where good management is employed – regular poop scooping, resting if particularly wet and prone to getting ripped up by hooves, and regular maintenance. Though this is the ideal paddock care standard, it’s not always possible for every owner to achieve, and so the space with which we need to provide our horses to be turned out in, doesn’t always fit into this neatly packaged formula.

 

The amount of space needed to turn out any given number of horses depends as much on the care of the paddock itself, and it’s specific usage, as it does on the number of animals it has to support. A pasture that is well maintained, rested and rotated, as well as meticulously cleared of muck, has the potential to support more horses than a larger pasture that receives less care might. Similarly, if the paddock is only used for a few hours turn out per day, it can provide grazing and exercise for many more horses than a pasture that is used round the clock.

 

In addition to thinking about the space and condition of the paddock, it’s also important to take into account the individual horses who will use it. If several horses are to be turned out together, more space might be required to reduce the risk of bullying and fighting within the herd. Alternatively, a lamintic or obesity prone horse might do better on restricted grazing with less access to high quality grass.

 

horses-paddock

 

Fencing

 

With the space decided, the next important decision to make in selecting a suitable horse paddock, is the fencing. While it may differ for each individual group of horses, as a general rule, 3ft6 – 4ft6 is the guideline height for horse paddock fences. Pony fences can be built slightly lower, and fences on paddocks that will house stallions should be built higher and given extra reinforcements.

 

The type of fencing used should be robust and sturdy but also safe. Some horses like to be Houdini, others will roll or play close to fences, and all these situations can lead to a higher chance of an injured or stuck horse, if appropriate fencing is not used.

 

Any kind of wire is generally discouraged, barbed wire being the worst, given its potential to seriously injure your horse, and tear your rugs to shreds. Chicken, plain or other kinds of wire are also a bad idea, as they are easily caught in horse’s shoes, or can wrap around legs.  Compared to other fencing, wire has a much lower visibility to the horse, which can also lead to accidents when the horse doesn’t see the fence line in time.  Single strand electric wire is also not recommended for this reason.

 

Wooden post and rail fencing is often hailed as the best choice for a horse paddock, though other materials in a post and rail arrangement, flexi-rails (rubber or PVC-coated webbing) or plastic stays with multiple rows of electric tape, also work well.

 

Whatever fence you decide to use should be well installed, with posts set deep enough that they will hold if a horse decides to lean on them. Safety should always be your biggest concern when selecting a fence for your paddock. A good fence choice will help with avoiding injuries by lowering the chance the horses will get caught or run into a fence, as well reducing as the risk of harm that would be caused should a horse escape through it.

 

Shelter

 

Providing a shelter from the elements, be it wind and rain or sun and flies, is critical in any paddock. Shelters should be sturdy enough to withstand the most extreme weather in your area, without falling down or coming apart and potentially injuring your horses.

 

The size of the shelter is also important, a shelter too small may not allow enough space for every horse to seek protection, and can facilitate fights and bullying.  Shelter size should be decided depending on how many horses and ponies may have to use it at any given time. If a maximum of five horses will use the paddock, then the shelter should be large enough for all five to be inside, if they wish. The depth of a straight shelter is usually 12ft, with a width of 12ft for the first horse, followed by an additional 5ft for each horse that will also use it. Covered shelters should be at least 9ft in height. This can be used as a guideline, and adapted for individual needs such as more space to avoid fights.

 

Grass

 

The grazing available makes up a vital component of any horse paddock. The type of grass used is important, and there are a number of pre-mixed seeds available to buy that cater specifically to good equine grazing requirements. Generally, meadow fescue, Timothy, creeping red fescue and smooth stalked meadow grass are mixed together in varying quantities in these seed packages. Although some mixes may contain Ryegrass, it is actually a less favourable alternative given its quick growth rate and ability to overpower the finer grasses that horses actually prefer. Always make sure you seed with grasses specifically for horses, not cattle or other livestock.

 

Good quality grass should be combined with a regular maintenance program. This should include a comprehensive worming schedule for all horses in your paddock, plus regular removal of manure to keep the pasture clean and free of worms, flies and other pests. It is advised that most pasture is renewed every ten to fifteen years.

 

horse-grazing

 

A number of plants, including but not limited to ragwort, foxglove, hemlock, buttercups, are harmful to horses, and should be regularly checked for, and removed appropriately if found. It is advisable to look up plants common in your area, as well as making sure you are familiar with the most common and dangerous toxic plants, so you can be sure your paddock is clear and your horses are not at risk. Every horse paddock should have access to a constant supply of clean, fresh water, be this in the form of a bath that is meticulously maintained and filled, or an automatic drinker.

 

 

Getting It Right

 

Not many paddocks are absolutely perfect. By covering these basics and keeping in mind the purpose of your space, including how many horses it has to support, you can ensure your paddock is as close to ideal as possible. The safety and well being of your horses should always be at the forefront of your mind, and though it can be tempting to try and save money or time by using a less ideal pasture, it’s important to remember the likelihood that this will cost you later in the form of an accident, or the poor health of a horse. Any pasture should be safe, secure and well maintained, and should meet these guidelines wherever possible.

 

By Emma Doherty – Luna Sport Horses

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Bitcoin Helping Organic Farmers in Argentina

Just about every 10 years their government inflates the money supply to pay debt and becomes worthless. They can’t do that with bitcoin so value stays with the workers who create it 🙂

Argentina is a economic basket case but with Bitcoin as least if their currency gets wiped out farmers will still have value saved and can trade. Farmers can trade directly with customers with very little fees so that means more in the farmers pocket and the customers.

We use Bitpay.com to accept Bitcoin ourselves and you should consider it also.

Read the full article at https://www.coindesk.com/farmers-help-bitcoin-grow-organically-argentina

Could Bitcoin end war?

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What Chicken Breeds are Ideal in the Backyard

keep5There are many, many chicken breeds to choose from that suit many needs. Over time, chickens have been primarily bred for three things- for egg production, for meat production, and for the best balance of both of these factors. But with the recent upsurge in backyard chicken keeping for more than just food, chickens that are just as good as beautiful pets as they are at making eggs (even more fun with a egg cuber) are becoming a sought after commodity. And, in many settings, good chicken pets need other qualities such as tameness, quietness, calmness, and gentleness. Balancing these qualities can make for an ideal chicken in any backyard. Here’s a rundown of the best breeds that can have all of these qualities.

  • Orpingtons are a favorite chicken breed the world over, and for absolute good reason. They’re adorable, large breed chickens that are quiet. Many keepers often refer to them as puppies in feathers. They lay eggs very well, and if you’re so inclined are also good heritage meat birds. They do well in the cold weather, and good in hot weather. They’re tough, healthy birds. But, they’re gentle, quiet disposition and egg production make them easily tamed, fluffy, happy breakfast machines that love living with people. And, they come in many wonderful colors. One of the most popular is buff- a beautiful reddish yellow solid color reminiscent of every barn and farmyard.

 

  • The Silkie is an old breed that was once bred for its interestingly dark colored meat, but now is enjoyed as a very adorable, poodle-like lap chicken that people seem to collect like all toy dogs, or even fancy Persian cats. You may have even read or heard a story or two about a house chicken in a diaper that is much loved and overly spoiled. It was probably a Silkie. Quiet, small, fluffy hair-like plumage sets Silkies apart. Silkie hens especially sport a fluff ball of feathers on top of their heads, comically and endearing they are. Silkie roosters have a more swept-back pompadours. They have feathers all the way down to their feet and also come in numerous colors and mixes, and are a small little chicken. For their size, they lay eggs surprisingly well too, and are actually pretty hardy and healthy chickens. Gentle and calm, you’ll find yourself wanting to bring them in the house like a pup or cat too!

 

  • And finally, the Cochin makes our list of best backyard chicken breeds- as they are also wonderful, calm pets. They come in standard size (a large bird) or in the very popular bantam size. Both sizes of birds have the same calm and sweet disposition. They often enjoy being picked up and held, and aren’t heavy garden scratchers. In appearance they are super fluffy, round little basketballs of adorable-ness, with heavy feathering all over their bodies and onto their feet. Extremely quiet, they’re also good with children. And like the other two breeds here, they’re hardy and healthy and lay surprisingly well.

 

We hope you enjoy our favorite chicken breeds for the backyard. Remember, chickens are also individuals and will have personalities of their own. But overall, these breeds are sure to please!

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An Introduction to Peaceful Parenting

peaceful-parentingParenting, understatedly, is probably one of the hardest jobs out there- and probably the most important job. For many people, it comes so easily and often unexpected. For others, it seems like becoming a parent might end up being a long-awaited dream that might not happen. Whatever your circumstances, whatever you choose, many of us become parents and end up having to participate in this age-old puzzle called parenting. No one wants to raise a child the wrong way. Most instead dream of raising children who are confident, successful, and bastions to ideal parenting. This is however, hard to pin down. What’s the best way to parent a child? What works best? Is there a sure-fire method of parenting that works? There are studies out there that show how one type of parenting approach seems to work, and we call that Peaceful Parenting.

Peaceful parenting is what it sounds like. It’s a general term for a feel and method of parenting that’s not wrought with screaming, yelling, hitting, imprisonment, and dysfunction. Easier said than done of course, in those moments when everyone’s tired and fed-up, but overall, parenting peacefully has been shown to benefit not only children long-term, but it’s also shown to benefit parents as well. And, for those of us who weren’t parented peacefully as children (and many of us weren’t!) we don’t really know how to parent aside from spanking or using shame. In fact, often times many of us don’t even realize as parents how non-peaceful we really are towards our children.

There are moral obligations for peaceful parenting along with the fact that it simply raises better children. Consider the fact that children come into the world as heavy obligations which are not of their own choosing. They didn’t choose to be obligations. They didn’t choose to be born to specific parents. They are completely dependent on adults for every need, and withholding these needs easily creates insecurities and issues down the road that might seem insignificant at first, but later on can become serious problems later. An example of non-peaceful parenting can come in simple but significant form. Consider the following- a mother and daughter are playing at the park and mother wants to leave before daughter does. Mother asks daughter more than once to leave, daughter declines. So mother then gets up and pretends to leave the park without her daughter. Her daughter will think to herself (without realizing it) that her mother will leave her alone, on her own at the park. She can’t find her own shelter. She can’t find her own food. She’s a target for predators. Where will she sleep? So she runs after her mother to ensure that she’ll make it to the car in time before her mother abandons her at the park. What kind of lesson is mother teaching her daughter here? That if she doesn’t come when mother asks, she’ll be left behind like nothing- is that the kind of lesson you want your children to learn?

Spanking and yelling also have the same effect on children. There are alternatives to aggressive, non-peaceful parenting that work, and that teach your children that you love them and they can trust you.

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The Benefits of Sunlight

sunlightWork, kids, home, shopping. They are typical of everyday life that are depleted our moral strenuous tasks. Fortunately, the holidays arrive, and either on the beach or the mountains, all run to relax outside. Sleeping, eating out, going swimming, sunbathing … who do not wish to do something about this right now? Or even Will all at once? The latter, sunbathing, is probably the most widespread practice, who do not feel like lying down for a while and doze with its relaxing effect? Sunbathing is most popular in the summer months, although the practice is spreading to other months, depending upon the temperature.
Do you know what the benefits of sunbathing are?

 

The sun, taken with due caution, is a source of health benefits. During the summer, enhances relaxation, increases the immune system and our sex life and even protects against depression, among other benefits.

 

The explanation is that the UV rays increase the production of a neurotransmitter associated with the feeling of being: serotonin, which is also involved in the regulation of sleep, body temperature and sexual behavior.

 

This is not an excuse to expose the uncontrolled sun. We have to consider how your skin reacts to sun light so avoid using the central hours of the day, do it gradually and protect our head.

 

This time of year also positively influences the heart and the effect of heat lowers blood pressure. This coupled with the fact that in summer perform more physical activity and eat more fruit, causes cardiovascular disease suffer a decline at this time of year,

 

Indeed, vitamin D is one of the main benefits of sun bathing. “It has very important role in intestinal calcium absorption and bone mineralization function. Therefore, it is important to keep a daily exposure to sunlight taking the proper precautions.

 

According to the specialist therapeutic benefits of the sun already known since the nineteenth century, when patients with tuberculosis and rickets were exposed to sunlight. There autoimmune diseases such as psoriasis suffering significant improvements with sun exposure.

The benefits of sunbathing are counted everywhere. Sunbathing is one of the cheapest and healthiest ways to take care of our body. One of the main benefits of sunbathing is the increase of vitamin D.

Although the vitamins are primarily acquired diet, vitamin D case is different, since this thanks to UV sunlight through a cholesterol derivative precursor is metabolized. Sunbathing, therefore, not only keeps our bones and teeth strong and healthy, but also helps to lower cholesterol. A vitamin D, you can also attach other beneficial properties as a result of sun, such as decreased blood pressure, ideal for hypertension, prevention of numerous cancers, such as breast or colon, and also protects against multiple sclerosis, so it is clear that the benefits of sunbathing are highly important for our body.

Among the benefits of sunbathing is also improving the immune system because it activates white blood cells, and it is a wonderful beauty treatment as it helps eliminate acne and boosts metabolism, helping you lose weight. Clearly, a good sun bath is the best treatment for health and beauty.

Sunbathing regularly produces increased levels of serotonin, also known as the hormone of happiness, an increase in testosterone, which causes an increase in sexual desire, and increases the levels of nocturnal melatonin, which promotes sleep and rest. These effects are most evident during the summer, which have a higher incidence of sunlight.

As we can see, the benefits of sunbathing are numerous and varied, and help take care of your health in all possible areas. However, is gold that glitters?

Despite the numerous benefits of sunbathing, humans need to be protected from too much sun because UV radiation, namely A, can damage our skin if you do not care. Use sunscreen for sun protection is a very healthy habit if you want to take care of your health and beauty, because sun damage can be very serious and even irreversible.

Our skin needs sunlight, but in perspective manner. To avoid overheating, the skin has its own defense mechanism, melanin production. Melanin is a pigment UV absorbed radiation, preventing DNA damage. However, if radiation is intense, and summer at certain times, such protection becomes inefficient and radiation can seriously damage our skin, causing irritation, burns, and even skin cancer.

To avoid damage, besides not bask in the rush hours, it is necessary to use sunscreen to help protect our skin from the sun, preventing cell damage while retaining the benefits of sunbathing.

So here, you know, if you want to take care of your health and beauty, don’t forget to take sun bath.

 

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How to Prepare the Ideal Garden Bed with Raised Bed Gardening

raised-gardenThe best thing you can do for your yearly harvest of produce, or for the best looking ornamental plants, is to construct the best growing space for them before you begin seeding and planting. Different plants have different needs, but there is a generalized type of garden bed that will grow most all popular and commonly available plants beautifully. And, preparing the best garden bed isn’t a terribly difficult task. Here is a simple method to prepare the ideal garden bed, suitable for most ornamentals and produce gardening.

Most plants require deep, very well-draining soil comprised heavily of broken down organic material. A good, basic way to accomplish this without much work is to create a raised garden bed and fill it with ideal soil right off the bat. This requires no digging or removal of sod, no tilling, and can be done on hard clay soils and improve on ground soils that are less than ideal for planting.

There are many kinds of raised garden beds. Commonly, frames made out of wood or any other available material in the shape of boxes set on the ground is a popular starting point for a raised garden bed, to be filled with soil later. You can use landscape block, bales of hay or straw, old tires, rocks, or whatever you have to frame a bed. Another method of raised bed gardening is called lasagna gardening, and similar in nature is a method called hegelkultur gardening. Both of these methods can be done in a frame, but are typically done without permanent borders. Both employ the strategic layering of different raw materials and are allowed to compost themselves over time.

Soil best for filling typical framed raised beds consists of ready to use fully rotted down compost. You can make this on your own or more commonly purchase it in bags from your local garden center. Make your raised bed at least 6 inches deep, and you can lay the compost into the raised bed right on the ground and the volume of the soil will kill the weeds and sod underneath. You can work in some manure or fertiliser of choice into the compost as well at the time of filling the bed. Beds constructed this way are ready to be planted in right away. A deep layer of compost will drain perfectly yet retain moisture well, and with mixed in fertilizer, the plants will be fed sufficiently for a long time.

Every fall or end of the growing season, work more compost and manure/choice of fertiliser into the raised bed, or mulch your bed well if you’ve constructed a permanent bed for ornamentals. The addition of mycorrhizae is helpful also. Good mulches break back down into the raised bed quickly, such as wood shavings, grass clippings, and shredded fallen tree leaves.

We hope this guide helps you prepare the ideal garden bed with the raised bed method. Raised beds are a fast, simple way to make instant space for plants and will help them thrive for years and produce heavy food crops.

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Sustainable Gardening

garden-bedsMore and more home gardeners are using organic practices with excellent results.  The next logical step in gardening is to strive for sustainability.  This is a philosophy aimed at the preservation of both healthy soil and precious resources. You want to grow organic crops that are good for your family, but you also want to take responsibility for the wellbeing of your land, whether it is the soil in a tiny container garden, a series of raised beds, a large stand alone garden, or even several acres that you may have under cultivation.

Here are some simple practices that you should follow in an effort to become more sustainable.

Water Conservation

One cannot overemphasize the importance of water preservation around the world.  It is a dwindling commodity and every bit of conservation at the local level is very helpful.  Get involved by utilizing rain barrels at home.  Rainwater caught from your roof will fill a 50 gallon barrel very quickly during a mild rainstorm.  Try to hand water in order to avoid waste.

Compost

Everyone should be composting!  It is easy and inexpensive, but above all it is highly beneficial to the health of your soil.  Site your compost pile in a sunny location and simply begin by piling

compost-pile

up leaves, grass clippings, garden waste,etc.

 You should also be adding kitchen scraps and most leftovers (no meat products), and do this throughout the year.  Occasionally you will have to turn your pile over with a pitchfork in order to aerate it and allow the soil to really “cook” in the sunlight.  Before you know it you will have buckets of compost for spreading nutrients back into the soil.  If you live near the ocean, gather up some seaweed and add this to the pile.  As it breaks down, it also serves as a great way to aerate your soil allowing tender plant roots to really take hold.

Compost bins are also worth considering.  They are available at any good garden center or home
water-collectionimprovement store and make composting easy and neat.

Spread the Word

Sustainable practicing gardeners (especially old ones!) are a wonderful source of knowledge.  Most love to talk about their successes and failures and what they have learned along the way.  As you learn about composting, crop rotation, pest and weed control and many other sustainable techniques, it is up to you to pass this knowledge on.  Join the locally grown organic and sustainable movement and we will all be better off in the long run.

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Solar Snake Repeller Scam with Honest Alternatives

solar-snake-repeller-fraudAs urban sprawl continues more and more people are coming into contact with snakes. People living in rural areas are not normally that concerned as they have encounter a variety of snake over their lifetime their lifetime so not normally a concern. Some snakes are poisonous and can be fatal so it is no surprise to see people living in fear and are susceptible to snake oil salesman (couldn’t help the pun) selling pseudo-science. Many companies have grown around this phobia to offer sophisticated solutions to repel snakes from their premises or surrounding. Solar snake repellers don’t have a great reputation as honest/scientific tools as determined from experts in the field as can be seen at https://www.facebook.com/SnakeRepellentInvestigators . They are making millions so why don’t they get them tested by real independent testing authority? We some tips and tricks to keep the snakes away from your surroundings and make it a safe place to live for you and your loved ones.

 

What can you can do to prevent snakes from entering your backyard:

  • snake-repeller-scamEliminate as many hidden or covered places as possible.
  • Remove any area that you suspect might be a snake heaven in your backyard. Snakes love ponds or water sources.
  • Remove tall grasses, shrubs, wood or rock piles, boards, logs or anything that you think will allow snakes to crawl under.
  • Keep away/control rats, mice, frogs, lizards or anything that serves as a staple diet.
  • If you spot a snake in your backyard, do not attempt to chase it away yourself. If they sense a threat, they may turn defensive and attack. Instead call up professionals (snake catcher).

 

Some natural ways to ward off snakes from your backyard by planting some commonly available plants (not scientifically tested but cheaper than wasting money on solar repellers):

 

Wormwood (Artemisia)

It is commonly known as Felon Herb, Wild Wormwood, Henry, Sailor’s Tobacco, Old Man, St. John’s Plant, Naughty Man, Old uncle or Chrysanthemum Weed. Wormwood is considered invasive at few places. This plant can be very commonly found growing on nitrogenous soil, like waste land or road side. It’s a tall herbaceous perennial plant with woody root. The only downside of this plant is that it is very invasive, that means it takes over wherever it is planted and throws up another issue of management control.

 

Tulbaghia Violacea

This is a popular garden plant and is good for even most difficult part of the garden since it can stand prolonged drought. The plant also makes an ideal candidate for herb garden since both its leaves and flowers can be used in salads and other dishes. It is also considered as a medicinal plant since it finds use in curing many diseases such as sinus, headaches. The plant is also good snake repellent and it is this reason Zulus plants it around their homes.

 

West Indian Lemon Grass

Believe it or not, snakes don’t like citrus smell from the leaves. The good part is that this plant requires very minimal care and would do just fine on its own.

 

Sarpgandha (Rauwolfia serpentina)

This plant is known by variety of local names and is commonly found in Asian countries mainly India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Nepal and Bhutan. The plant is known for its ability to repel snakes away.

 

Andrographis paniculata

This herbaceous plant is commonly found in India and Sri Lanka and is widely cultivated for the treatment of some infectious disease. In Malaysia, it is known as ‘Hempedu Bumi’ which literally means bile of earth since it is one of the most bitter medicinal plants.